{"id":752,"date":"2019-02-15T20:37:02","date_gmt":"2019-02-15T20:37:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/temp35512659.wordpress.com\/2019\/02\/15\/a-haven-for-venezuelans-in-chicago\/"},"modified":"2025-10-09T11:18:15","modified_gmt":"2025-10-09T16:18:15","slug":"un-refugio-para-los-venezolanos-en-chicago","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/borderlessmag.org\/es\/2019\/02\/15\/a-haven-for-venezuelans-in-chicago\/","title":{"rendered":"A la sombra del cambio de gobierno, un refugio para los venezolanos en Chicago"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"\"
\nPhoto by Geoff Stellfox.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

At Rica Arepa, a young couple slings tasty cornmeal sandwiches\u200a\u2014\u200aand for many customers, recreates a world that no longer exists.<\/em><\/p>\n

On a cold evening in November, just before midnight, Rica Arepa Venezuelan Cafe sits in a cluster of shuttered storefronts on Armitage Avenue, in Hermosa. And though the streets have gone quiet for the night, inside, the restaurant is buzzing with life.<\/p>\n

Having bid farewell to their final customers hours earlier, first-time restaurateurs Maria Uzcategui, 22, and her husband, Kharim Rinc\u00f3n, 24, lay out a spread of bite-size cheese arepas and empanadas. Over the speakers, Uzcategui\u2019s teenage sister, Valeria, queues up a mix of Caribbean salsa and Latin pop.<\/p>\n

At midnight, a wave of guests arrive for an after-hours party. The occasion? Rica Arepa\u2019s one-year anniversary. Hugs are given, chairs stacked, and tables pushed to the walls to make room for an impromptu dance floor. Family and friends, some from out of state, turn out en force to celebrate the couple\u2019s whirlwind first year in business. \u201cI can\u2019t understand a year could be that fast,\u201d says Rinc\u00f3n. \u201cI mean, we\u2019ve been working very hard, [but] it doesn\u2019t feel like a year.\u201d<\/p>\n

Since Rica Arepa\u2019s opening in November 2017, the restaurant has become a haven for Venezuelan immigrants and asylum seekers in Chicago. Having fled a home country that grows more unrecognizable each day\u200a\u2014\u200aone marked by an uncertain economy, crumbling infrastructure, and a growing murder rate under the dictatorship of Nicolas Maduro\u200a\u2014\u200aRica Arepa\u2019s customers relive happier memories in the cozy neighborhood spot. Even since the ascension of National Assembly leader Juan Guaid\u00f3, who appointed himself President in January, 40 Venezuelans have died in mass protests.<\/p>\n

At one end of the restaurant, Joe Avenda\u00f1o, who drives two hours down from Waukesha to dine here once a month, watches his daughter. The seven-year-old, Sofia, signs her name on a Venezuelan bol\u00edvar banknote and tacks it to the wall, itself covered with the hyperinflated currency.<\/p>\n

The wall serves as a visual museum of Venezuela\u2019s economic crisis, with one and five bol\u00edvar notes covered up by 500s and 1,000s. By August of last year, when Venezuela rolled out a new currency, the value of the bills had fallen so far that a can of Coke reportedly<\/a> cost 2.8 million bol\u00edvar.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\nPhoto by Geoff Stellfox.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

According to the UN<\/a>, an average of 5,000 Venezuelans leave the country each day. As of December, about 3.3 million people had fled the country since 2015, and the UN estimates two million more could follow this year. In the United States, the number of Venezuelans who have applied for asylum is almost three times greater than any other nationality, according to<\/a> US Citizenship and Immigration Services asylum data.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen I say I miss Venezuela, I don\u2019t mean the land,\u201d says Hector Cedeno-Indriago, 19, another regular. \u201cReally,\u201d he says, \u201cit\u2019s the people that I left over there.\u201d<\/p>\n

Cedeno-Indriago learned of Rica Arepa from his father, who found it on Facebook. The moment he stepped inside the restaurant, he says, he felt like he was back in Puerto La Cruz. \u201cIt was something in the air, like socializing with the people that I trusted back in Venezuela. Home is like a place where I have trust in friends and family.\u201d<\/p>\n

In a photo from Rica Arepa\u2019s anniversary party posted to Instagram, Cedeno-Indriago stands in a celebratory black suit beside a painting of a Venezuelan and American flag. In his caption, he thanks the owners for fostering a \u201clittle bit of Venezuela that we want so much here.\u201d<\/p>\n

As night creeps into morning at the anniversary party, a lull in the evening is shattered by a chrous of \u201cAy, Qu\u00e9 Noche Tan Preciosa,\u201d a Venezuelan birthday song. The crowd surrounds a cake, its candles glinting in a revolving disco ball. Holding hands, Uzcategui and Rinc\u00f3n inch closer, take a breath, and blow them out.<\/p>\n

The idea for Rica Arepa was born\u00a0in 2016. Rinc\u00f3n was tired of working construction, and Uzcategui\u2019s older brother Andres, 27, felt the same about his factory job. With Rinc\u00f3n\u2019s cooking skills and Andres\u2019s experience slinging street food back in Venezuela, the pair teamed up to start making arepas. Uzcategui\u2019s mother, Gloria, 52, stepped in to help.<\/p>\n

The family began selling the griddled cornmeal sandwiches from a cart in Hermosa early in the morning, and later expanded to the evening to reach more customers. Soon, they learned of the Chicagoans\u2019 affinity for what Uzcategui calls \u201cMexican hot sauce\u201d (salsa verde). \u201cIt was, \u2018boom!\u2019 \u201d she says. The financial game-changer eventually helped Rica Arepa move from a cart to their storefront.<\/p>\n

Rica Arepa\u2019s menu has expanded considerably. The restaurant now serves drinks like chicha (a thick, sweet rice beverage) and papelon con lim\u00f3n (Venezuelan-style lemonade). They\u2019ve also mastered a handful of regional dishes, and more than 20 variations on the arepa, stuffed with fillings like shredded Gouda, stewed black beans, and savory meat.<\/p>\n

\"\"Rinc\u00f3n and Uzcategui show off their handy work. (Photo by Geoff Stellfox)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Inside the caf\u00e9, daffodil-yellow walls are splashed with blue, red, and white accents, a tribute to Venezuela\u2019s flag. A chalkboard hanging above the counter reads, \u201cCastellano, ni espa\u00f1ol, hablamos Venezolano.\u201d (\u201cWe don\u2019t speak Castilian or Spanish. We speak Venezuelan.”)<\/p>\n

Behind the counter, Uzcategui shows off a handpicked selection of Venezuelan cereals and cookies, including Toops, a chocolate cereal, and Cocosette, coconut cream-filled wafers \u2014 rare finds in the Midwest.<\/p>\n

Helping Venezuelans access the elusive feeling of home is at the heart of Rica Arepa\u2019s mission. Everything must be perfect, the couple says, from the menu to the decor to the music. Their customers count on them to keep the old Venezuela alive between their yellow walls, and they struggle with the guilt of falling short.<\/p>\n

\u201cLike today,\u201d says Uzcategui, \u201cwe are out of teque\u00f1os [Venezuelan cheese sticks].\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cThat\u2019s why people come,\u201d adds Rinc\u00f3n.<\/p>\n

\u201cTwo people called already, [saying] \u2018I just called because of teque\u00f1os,\u2019\u201d says Uzcategui. \u201cI said, \u2018I\u2019m so sorry.\u2019 But they\u2019re like, \u2018OK, what time will you have teque\u00f1os ready?\u2019 I was like, \u2018Oh my god. 1 p.m? I don\u2019t know!\u2019 \u201d<\/p>\n

As Rica Arepa\u2019s popularity has skyrocketed, the couple has struggled to keep up with requests for niche regional dishes they\u2019re unfamiliar with \u2014 especially over social media.<\/p>\n

One example? The patac\u00f3n, a fried plantain sandwich popular in the northwestern state of Zulia. The handheld meal is stuffed with shredded beef, chicken, or ham, cheese, and lettuce, and topped with ketchup and mayo. Rinc\u00f3n had never eaten one before \u2014 let alone cooked one \u2014 so he relied on a customer to teach him how. Now, it\u2019s a staple on the menu.<\/p>\n

Uzcategui and Rinc\u00f3n run a mom-and-pop shop by the book. On a typical day, Uzcategui works up front taking orders, phoning distributors, and running inventory; Rinc\u00f3n helms the kitchen and sometimes goes out on deliveries.<\/p>\n

In between, it\u2019s bookkeeping, hiring, social media, stepping in for no-shows, and grabbing last-minute ingredients for the restaurant\u2019s ever-growing menu.<\/p>\n

The couple says the long shifts have put a strain on their relationship, but Rica Arepa\u2019s popularity \u2014 especially among Chicago\u2019s Venezuelan community \u2014 keeps them going.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe are not perfect,\u201d Uzcategui says. \u201cWe fight [about] stupid things or big things, but then we try to talk. We try to explain to each other why things happened that way. We\u2019re like every other relationship.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"
Behind the counter at Rica Arepa. (Photo by Geoff Stellfox)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Uzcategui and Rinc\u00f3n left Venezuela for America four years ago. She was 18 and he was 20, both of them college students. Their hometown, Porlamar, on Isla de Margarita, was once a bustling tourist destination, marked by its natural beauty. But when the couple recalls the end of their time there \u2014 and what Venezuela has become since \u2014 their smiles fade.<\/p>\n

Beginning in 2015, President Maduro deployed 80,000 members of Venezuelan security forces across the country under the pretense of combating crime. But Human Rights Watch has\u00a0reported<\/a>\u00a0widespread abuses of the military, including extrajudicial killings, arbitrary detentions, forced evictions, and the destruction of homes.<\/p>\n

Street crime, too, has skyrocketed. In 2017, the Venezuelan NGO Observatory of Violence\u00a0found<\/a>\u00a0that the country had more than 26,616 homicides, or about 89 per 100,000 inhabitants. (The United States\u2019 rate, by comparison,\u00a0is 5.3 per 100,000<\/a>.)<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019ve even seen people killing people in the streets,\u201d Uzcategui says. \u201cIt\u2019s something that you never want to see.\u201d<\/p>\n

Such incidents became regular in Porlamar. And eventually, Rinc\u00f3n and Uzcategui bumped up against them firsthand.<\/p>\n

Rinc\u00f3n had heard of express kidnappings, an increasingly popular crime in which victims are held hostage for a quick ransom, from some unlucky friends. \u201cThey just tell you to make sure that it doesn\u2019t happen to you,\u201d he says. \u201cWe never knew until we got robbed.\u201d<\/p>\n

It happened to the couple on a night in 2014. Rinc\u00f3n was dropping Uzcategui off at her home, which was tucked away in a gated neighborhood. When Rinc\u00f3n stepped out of the car to open the gate, like he had dozens of times before, a couple jumped out at him with guns drawn.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey yell at us like, \u2018Move, move! Get out of the car!\u2019\u201d says Uzcategui. \u201cWe tried to get out, [but] there was [another] car coming, so they said, \u2018No! Go inside the car!\u2019 They drive us around, and they took everything from us.\u201d<\/p>\n

Eventually, Rinc\u00f3n and Uzcategui were dropped on the side of the road in another neighborhood, which Uzcategui describes as \u201cunsafe.\u201d They ran until they came across officers in a police car, who ultimately drove them back home. \u201cIt was like a bad dream,\u201d she says. \u201cLike, really? Is this happening to me?\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cThey can kill you for a bag, and that\u2019s crazy. They don\u2019t care. For a cellphone, for nothing. They can kill you.\u201d<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

It was a breaking point for the couple. They didn\u2019t have a plan, but they did have a pair of plane tickets and a place to stay in Miami, where most of Rinc\u00f3n\u2019s family already lived. \u201cWe didn\u2019t think about the real stuff in the moment,\u201d Uzcategui says. \u201cWe\u2019ll move there, and then we\u2019ll see.\u201d<\/p>\n

In Miami, they moved in with Rinc\u00f3n\u2019s brother. The couple worked round the clock, picking up jobs bussing tables or with moving companies. They stretched their paychecks, taking English classes at a local community college and trying to make friends in a new country. Quickly, stress and homesickness set in.<\/p>\n

\u201cEven here, even now, I want to go home,\u201d Uzcategui says. \u201cWe like other countries; we like how America received us and stuff, but it\u2019s not your \u2018home-home.\u2019 You want to be in the place that you [grew] up. Home is home.\u201d<\/p>\n

And so in 2015 in search of a place to call their own \u2014 and tired of living in Rinc\u00f3n\u2019s brother\u2019s house \u2014 they headed to Chicago. Since then, Hermosa has been home.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s a lot of Venezuelans that are alone here in the United States,\u201d says Rinc\u00f3n, who goes out of his way to befriend Rica Arepa customers. \u201cIt\u2019s hard for them because they don\u2019t have any family here in Chicago that can support them. So, they try to come in here and make new friends and see how they could feel better.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"
Greg McMahill, who drove in from Naperville for the restaurant\u2019s authentic Venezuelan cuisine, holds his son in Rica Arepa\u2019s renovated dining room. (Photo by Geoff Stellfox)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For the owners of Rica Arepa, the days of selling street food from a cart\u00a0are a distant memory. But Rinc\u00f3n keeps a memento from those days stowed in his car: an original sketch of Rica Arepa\u2019s logo, its name etched in pencil on a folded piece of paper. The only flourish in the design is the \u201ca\u201d in Rica, which swoops upward into a doodle of an arepa \u2014 an easy homage to their business\u2019s foundation.<\/p>\n

Weeks before Rica Arepa\u2019s one-year anniversary, the couple unveiled a newly renovated dining room to complement the sparse tables and bar stools tucked over by the kitchen. Bold decals border a large front window, which floods the restaurant in natural light. The area is meant for birthday parties, celebrations, and other gatherings that Rica Arepa is sure to serve as a nucleus for.<\/p>\n

In just under a year, the Uzcategui and Rinc\u00f3n have amassed a loyal enough following that they\u2019re toying with the idea of opening a second location. Or, they\u2019ll head back to the streets \u2014 this time with a food truck.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou know, that\u2019s a dream,\u201d Uzcategui says. \u201cYou always want something that\u2019s yours.\u201d<\/p>\n

This story was co-published in Chicago magazine<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

En Rica Arepa, una joven pareja sirve sabrosos bocadillos de harina de ma\u00edz y, para muchos clientes, recrea un mundo que ya no existe.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":39,"featured_media":1239,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[28,1],"tags":[],"coauthors":[259,262],"class_list":{"0":"post-752","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-as-told-to","8":"category-immigration-policy"},"yoast_head":"\nIn the shadow of government change, a haven for Venezuelans in Chicago – Borderless Magazine NFP<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In the shadow of government change, a haven for Venezuelans in Chicago – Borderless Magazine NFP\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/borderlessmag.org\/es\/2019\/02\/15\/un-refugio-para-los-venezolanos-en-chicago\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"es_MX\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"In the shadow of government change, a haven for Venezuelans in Chicago – Borderless Magazine NFP\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In the shadow of government change, a haven for Venezuelans in Chicago – Borderless Magazine NFP\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/borderlessmag.org\/es\/2019\/02\/15\/un-refugio-para-los-venezolanos-en-chicago\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Borderless Magazine NFP\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/BorderlessMagazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-02-15T20:37:02+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-10-09T16:18:15+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/borderlessmag.org\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/71980-RicaArepaEdit90Days.120618.RicaArepa_03-3f2d46e0.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"F. 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