{"id":3053,"date":"2020-07-16T15:29:14","date_gmt":"2020-07-16T15:29:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/borderlessmag.org\/?p=3053"},"modified":"2022-09-30T12:48:17","modified_gmt":"2022-09-30T17:48:17","slug":"de-los-cafetales-de-el-salvador-a-las-tierras-lecheras-de-wisconsin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/borderlessmag.org\/es\/2020\/07\/16\/from-the-coffee-farms-of-el-salvador-to-the-dairy-lands-of-wisconsin\/","title":{"rendered":"De los cafetales de El Salvador a las tierras lecheras de Wisconsin"},"content":{"rendered":"

Above: Tile designs by Fernando LLort, a Salvadoran artist and former member of the \u201870s band La Banda del Sol, at Finca Coffee July 4, 2020 in Madison, Wis. According to LLort, the tiles reflect colorful, childlike representations of El Salvador. Francisco Velazquez\/Borderless Magazine<\/span><\/p>\n

Leer en espa\u00f1ol.<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n

Finca Coffee<\/span><\/span> is tucked into a new apartment complex on the south side of Madison, Wisconsin.\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

The one-year-old cafe\u2019s sun-soaked walls are bursting with color and covered with tiles designed by <\/span>Fernando LLort<\/span><\/a><\/span>, a Salvadoran artist and former member of the \u201870s band <\/span>La Banda del Sol.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Finca means \u201cfarm\u201d in Spanish and the cafe is designed to evoke the hip feel of a <\/span>cafeter\u00eda <\/span><\/i>that could be found walking the streets of San Salvador, El Salvador.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Sitting on the bookshelf near a record player is a glass sculpture of El Salvador\u2019s national bird, the torogoz, with its double tail feathers.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

But a year after first opening the cafe, like so many other businesses, is struggling due to the ongoing coronavirus pandemic. Co-owner Marleni De Valle is behind the kitchen\u2019s indigo countertop making one of her famous pupusas when Borderless stops by to chat.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Co-owners Silas Valle and Marleni Valle July 4, 2020 in Madison, Wis. Francisco Velazquez\/Borderless Magazine<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cThey are more than just handmade tortillas stuffed with ingredients, \u201cThey are my mother\u2019s recipe,\u201d Marleni De Valle said. \u201cI feel happy being able to share that authentic Salvadoran flavor. My mother\u2019s kitchen recipes are sacred. They\u2019re culinary secrets.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Pupusas, which are considered El Salvador\u2019s national dish, are more than just handmade tortillas stuffed with ingredients, Marleni De Valle says. They\u2019re her signature dish and she packs them with cheese, beans, or meat, or a mix of the three.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Marleni De Valle wants to expand the cafe and open locations elsewhere in the Midwest, including Chicago. She\u2019d also like to bring her mother to Wisconsin from El Salvador so that she could visit the cafe and see customers enjoying her famous pupusas. But many of those plans are on hold due to the uncertainty of when the pandemic will be over.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Salvadoran Quesadillas are made fresh every day by co-owner Marleni Valle at Finca Coffee July 5, 2020 in Madison, Wis. Francisco Velazquez\/Borderless Magazine<\/p><\/div>\n

Finca is one of only a handful of Salvadoran restaurants in the Madison area. Its customers are a mix of Salvadoran immigrants as well as people who may be unfamiliar with the Central American country\u2019s cuisine.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt makes me happy to see that people eat something and they\u2019re like \u2018Wow, I like this,\u2019\u201d said Marleni De Valle.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Marleni De Valle prides herself on the quality of her cafe\u2019s food and drinks. She and her husband, Silas De Valle, and their general manager, Todd Allbaugh, carefully source each ingredient.<\/span><\/p>\n

For instance,\u00a0 before the pandemic the De Valles bought their cafe\u2019s beans directly from farmers in El Salvador as a way to help support the livelihoods of coffee pickers, who are often women, said Allbaugh. It\u2019s a labor intensive job requiring harvesters to climb steep hillsides to get to the coffee trees and then carrying heavy bags of beans over their shoulders.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Todd Allbaugh, Finca Coffee\u2019s general manager, July 5, 2020 in Madison, Wis. Allbaugh works with farmers directly in El Salvador to oversee the import of coffee beans. Francisco Velazquez\/Borderless Magazine<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cBy [buying from farmers], we cut out the middle person buyer that most companies use,\u201d Allbaugh said. \u201cWe pay a higher price per pound, this way we help create at least five jobs down there.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

However the business has taken a hit during the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic. Finca Coffee was completely closed from March 23 until May 27 and only reopened at the end of May for pick-up orders and outdoor dining. The business only made half their regular earnings via these sales. The cafe has also struggled to source its coffee beans from El Salvador since the virus has spread across the globe more and the couple have had to look elsewhere for coffee beans.<\/span><\/p>\n

Finca\u2019s origin has its roots in a friendship sparked nearly over 30 years ago after Silas De Valle first received a USAID scholarship to attend University of Wisconsin in Richland. In 1989 he left his home in Metapan, El Salvador \u2014 a border town 7.5 miles from Guatemala \u2014 and arrived at the home of his first host family. He stayed for six months. After Silas De Valle met Allbaugh they became close friends and he spent the remainder of his studies living with his future general manager\u2019s parents.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Mexican Quesadillas made by Marleni Valle are one of four featured items on the menu at Finca Coffee, July 5, 2020 in Madison Wis. The green and red sauce are crafted from her family\u2019s recipe. Francisco Velazquez\/Borderless Magazine<\/p><\/div>\n

When Silas De Valle went to visit El Salvador in the winter of 1991 Allbaugh joined him. The country was in the midst of a 12 year civil war and Allbaugh called the trip an \u201cawakening moment\u201d for himself.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cI went down during Christmas and realized that you don\u2019t need a Christmas tree. You don\u2019t need a big deal. Just people that love you unconditionally and some beautiful weather,\u201d Allbaugh said. He has since returned to El Salvador nearly 40 times.<\/span><\/p>\n

Silas De Valle returned to El Salvador in 1993 and had a 21 year career in finance for organizations including <\/span>Hanes<\/span><\/span> and <\/span>UW-Madison<\/span><\/a><\/span>.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

During that time Marleni and Silas De Valle also launched a small advertising company which they continue to operate.<\/span><\/p>\n

When the couple moved back to Wisconsin in 2017 they wanted to open a cafe with Allbaugh. By July 2019 Finca opened its doors to the public.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cThings were excellent,\u201d said Silas De Valle. \u201cWe sold more than we had. The space was full and our new customers were recommending us to their friends. We thought the dream was to break even, and we did.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"

Finca Coffee located on the southside of Madison, Wis. in the Alexander Company Apartment Complex July 4, 2020. Francisco Velazquez\/Borderless Magazine<\/p><\/div>\n

Now the cafe is adapting to the new normal of social distanced dining and face masks. Yet customers like Denise Benitez are thankful Finca Coffee remains open despite the new challenges it faces.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s my bit of peace in these hectic times,\u201d said Benitez.<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

Our work is made possible thanks to donations from people like you. Support high-quality reporting by making a tax-deductible donation today.\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0<\/span>\n\t\t\t Donate \n\t\t<\/a><\/h4>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Madison's Finca Coffee celebra su primer aniversario con aut\u00e9nticas pupusas y granos de caf\u00e9 comprados directamente a los agricultores de El Salvador.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":41,"featured_media":3064,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[318,136],"tags":[91],"coauthors":[261],"class_list":{"0":"post-3053","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-arts-culture","8":"category-labor","9":"tag-food"},"yoast_head":"\nFrom the coffee farms of El Salvador to the dairy lands of Wisconsin – Borderless Magazine NFP<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Madison\u2019s Finca Coffee celebrates its first anniversary with authentic pupusas and coffee beans bought directly from farmers in El Salvador.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, 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